This three-hour cruise on the Bosphorus Strait, combined with a walking exploration of some of the small towns and neighborhoods along both sides of the waterway, is a perfect orientation to the city. It enables us to step back and see Istanbul from a distance, explore some of the larger geographical and historical themes that have shaped the city, and enjoy the Bosphorus.

We begin at the main ferry pier in the historic center and take the public ferry over to the Asian side. As we cross through the busy sea traffic that plies the Strait, our docent will point out the major monuments and discuss the role of the Strait in modern commerce. As we ride, we'll enjoy a small glass of strong tea, a sophisticated tradition on the ferries.

We'll spend the next few hours exploring the Asian side and the many faces of the city. Our tour will take us to a conservative part of town to visit a number of traditional mosques. This is a good jumping off point for introducing visitors to one of the big themes of Istanbul: the tension between secular Turkey and growing religious conservatism. We'll gain valuable insight into these questions by visiting local monuments and discovering the hidden nooks and crannies this often overlooked part of the city, far from the tourist crowds.

Our adventure will also take us to a small fishing village where the Ottoman viziers and other notables built their villas. Although they are officially a part of Istanbul today, the villages of Cengelkoy and Kuzguncuk still retain their original character and provide yet another contrast in this megalopolis of 16 million people.