Vegas is only just figuring out that it's a proper city with a fascinating history. After decades of neglect, Downtown and the inner suburbs are getting a revamp as locals and seasonal residents move back, taking advantage of the property bust to snap up gorgeous mid-modern homes and renovate them to their Mad Men era glory. Meanwhile, a series of quirky museums have opened or expanded, showcasing Vegas' unique founding myths. The new Mob Museum is a world-class institution that takes a forensic look at the history of organized crime in America. The Neon Museum, meanwhile, has consolidated and now offers regular tours of its haunting "Neon Boneyard", a display of hundreds of rescued signs from the art form's glory days. If this doesn't appeal, then perhaps you can discover Vegas' best-kept secret, namely: that it's in the middle of a desert of almost hallucinatory beauty. Otherwise, just shut up and do what everyone has always done in Vegas: get wasted and wake up somewhere dubious.
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The City of Las Vegas. Saying that sounds funny sometimes. After all, does this giant theme park in the desert - this wonky galaxy of strip malls clustered about a monument to late American capitalism so grotesque it might have made Nero blush - even qualify as a city? Well, actually, yes. In fact I would argue that not only is Las Vegas a city, but also that it is one of the most exciting and fascinating cities in America; a thrilling, often bizarre vision of the American future, for good or ill.
From its origins as a dusty watering hole between LA and its insufferably proper older sister, Salt Lake City, Las Vegas has metastasized into a city of two million. Indeed, until 2007 it was growing so fast that only the Asian mega cities were statistically close. The financial crisis, however, kicked Vegas' ass - hard. Foreclosures, unemployment and meth freakouts went through the roof. Yet, the strangest thing happened: the crisis has proved to be something a blessing in disguise. Suddenly, this city realized that crab buffets and plastic guitars full of margaritas weren't going to cut it on their own. Vegas had to become a proper city.
Since the crisis, Vegas has started to diversify its economy (particularly in the renewable energy sector). It's expanding its state college, UNLV, and is starting to get those things that make a city a city - museums, parks and, hopefully, a stadium and a sports team to put in it. The most obvious sign of Vegas' shift from transient pit stop to proper home is the metamorphosis of the Las Vegas downtown. The old area of the city, near the intersection of Las Vegas Boulevard and Fremont Street, is the site of a huge capital investment by internet retailer Zappos, which has made it of one of the most exciting urban renewal programs in the country. In a few years it will have transformed from a round of Doom played against crack whores to a swinging tech hub full of dog-walking yoga yuppies and hipster cocktail bars. Well, maybe minus the obnoxiousness. Hopefully.
Vegas has still got all the Vegas stuff: a restaurant scene you don't see outside of New York-LA-Chicago, mega clubs full of minor Kardashians and Jersey Shore stars... transvestites with a foot up on the Monopoly slot machine, painting their toe nails with one hand and taking free spins with the other (I swear). But its also got all the other stuff you probably had no idea was here: desert hiking that's the closest thing to flying to Mars, new museums; even a cute little ski resort. But Vegas is getting something else, too; something intangible and a little more exciting. A sense of itself.
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$50 per personThere are many great hikes at Red Rock Canyon. There are different rang...
With franchises by pretty much every major chef in the country, Vegas has a food scene of a city ten times its size. But it's not all caviar buffets and three-star degustations of koala five ways. A lot of top sous chefs (the actual chefs behind most of those brand name chop houses) are now Vegas locals and have opened suburban restaurants of exceptional quality. If you've been looking for a chance to go "off Strip", this could be it.
More Food & Wine in Las VegasHa ha ha. We all know Vegas doesn't do culture. Actually, that's not true. Actually it sort of is. It has an "arts district", of a sort, and an impressive new performing arts centre. But this city still lacks a lot of basics, such as a proper art museum. This is not to say, however, that Vegas doesn't have "culture" - merely that you may have to redefine your notion of it. For instance, if anything about the Rat Pack era - including mid-modern architecture, gangster shootings and smoking in public buildings - appeals to you, then Vegas may just be your Grand Tour.
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$50 per personThere are many great hikes at Red Rock Canyon. There are different rang...
What sights? Vegas is a sight. But fake volcanoes (lame) and dancing musical fountains (awesome) are just one part of the visual fever dream this city offers. The desert around the city is definitely worth a drive and new museums dedicated to the Mafia and the history of neon signage offer some structured alternatives to the greatest of all Las Vegas sightseeing activities - people watching.
More Sightseeing in Las VegasJust because Vegas' 1990s experiment as a family theme park failed doesn't mean this city isn't family friendly. In fact, barring the occasional East Coast v West Coast rapper shoot out, this town is surprisingly safe and pretty kid friendly. If the little tykes ask nicely they may get hooker cards from all the creepy guys on the Strip and collect the whole set!
More Family in Las VegasHere's a secret: Vegas is in the middle of an insanely beautiful desert with almost nobody in it. If you want to blow your mind try walking round somewhere like Valley of Fire for a day then going back to your fake Venetian suite that afternoon. It's like being in a William Gibson novel.
More Outdoors & Adventure in Las VegasIf fighting a busload of Korean tourists for a remaindered Oroton handbag is not your scene then check out Vegas' awesome vintage scene. Where else are you going to find a Lucille Ball slot machine or a stripper's ENTIRE WARDROBE including a sequined nurse's outfit and vintage leather cat suit onesie with a bedazzled Vargas Girl!
More Shopping in Las VegasWhat's that? You say you have nightlife in your town? Oh, that's nice for you. I bet you have fun and have all sorts of "stories" from your favorite "dive bars" and "nightclubs". What a pity YOU KNOW NOTHING. We're sorry to seem condescending, but telling people in Vegas about nightlife is like trying to get Saudis all excited about oil.
More Nightlife in Las VegasEnjoy the thrill of introducing a new place or experience to someone for the first time. Make money doing what you love.
